Tags
Malagos Farmhouse Artisanal Cheeses, Philippine cheeses, The Cheese Club of the Philippines, The Goatary
When I think of cheese made in the Philippines, I can only come up with kesong puti. Square white blocks of very soft, slightly salty cheese, made from unskimmed carabao’s milk, usually wrapped in banana leaves, and often eaten at breakfast sandwiched in hot pan de sal. Is that it? Is that all the cheese we make, I wondered?
At the recently-held March gathering of the Cheese Club of the Philippines, I was delighted to find that it spotlighted and paid tribute to our local cheeses. And one of the cheesemakers featured was Olive Puentespina’s Malagos Farmhouse Artisanal cheeses. In the past few years, fine locally-made cheeses have been finding their way to our plates — at our neighborhood Saturday Market, at the Wine Depot, in Rustan’s supermarkets, and in some restaurants like Chef Cyrille Soenen’s Brasserie CiÇou. They were from the Malagos Farmhouse Artisanal Cheeses of Davao. My favorite was their ricotta drizzled with a little truffle honey, which harmonized divinely with my sparkling rosé. There were also superb French-style goat cheeses created by The Goatary of Negros Oriental. The goats bred and raised here come from the Anglo-Nubian milking stock recognized worldwide for their high-quality high butterfat content and creamy flavor. Then there was that velvety and delicious fresh mozzarella from Bacolod created by the international cheesemaker Casa del Formaggio. (I want!!! Where do I buy this, I wondered?)
It is certainly wonderful to see that traditional, artisanal cheese-making is now making inroads in our country and we can now enjoy a range of fine Philippine-made cheeses beyond our customary Kesong Puti. That evening was definitely an eye-opening and palate-pleasing affair.
A Bouche Amused 
I make artisan cheeses at home and would like to meet other local cheesemakers. How do I go about this?
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Hi there! It’s great you make your own cheese! Hmm…The only thing I can think of is for you to send some of your cheeses for sampling and press review, get it written about. I learned about Malagos Farmhouse cheeses at the wine-tasting events of the Wine Depot. Or you could send a sampler to food writers in major newspapers or to the most popular food blogger here named Anton Diaz whose website “Awesome Planet” serves as a sort-of “Bible” for foodies. Or you could have a stall or ask someone with a stall in the weekend open-air markets all over the metro. Hope these suggestions help.
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Di ba Pinoy cheese din ang quezo de bola? Bukod sa kanilang dalawa ng kesong puti, meron pa po ba tayong tradisyonal na kesong Pinoy? (Maliban po dun sa mga bersyon lang natin ng foreign cheeses ng Italya, Pransya…) Para kasing nagiging mas interesado na ako sa keso.
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Naging Pinoy na lang ang queso de bola, andeslester (or do I call you Bicolano?)… but it’s actually Edam cheese originally from the town of Edam in the Netherlands. Queso de Bola (or ball of cheese) is merely the Spanish term which we Pinoys have adopted ever since we fell in love with this salty, flavorful cheese many centuries ago and made it one of our Christmas feast favorites. Even waaaaay back then, it was shaped into a ball and wrapped with red wax to help maintain the cheese’s quality during voyages. Aside from queso de bola, talagang kesong puti lamang ang matatawag tanging katutubong keso natin. Wala akong alam na ibang uri ng keso na gawa o nilikha nating mga Pilipino.
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I am a cheesemaker in Quezon City and specialize in carabao milk manchego. I also make cow’s milk gouda, parmesan, ricotta and feta. However, I have difficulty obtaining raw milk in the city and have to drive to Lipa or Lukban for milk, bringing my cost up too high. Thus I am unable to sell my cheeses. I am just sharing this to enlighten you on one of the challenges of cheesemaking locally.
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Thank you for sharing that tidbit, Ms. Bella. I love carabao’s milk (we used to line up with our bottles when the Stock Farm was still here in Alabang) and I can imagine how delicious carabao milk manchego must be. I hope someday I get so sample your cheeses. I was just wondering if there are farmers nearer your area … say in Bulacan or even in the rural areas of Rizal who could be a source for your raw milk? And as an aside… I checked your blog and enjoyed your write-ups! I’ve met Ryan long looooong ago, when we still called him “Kuya Cip”. I doubt if he’ll remember me but I’ve always remembered him as a sweet, gentle, and humble man. Thanks again for sharing and good luck on your cheesemaking!
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