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A Bouche Amused

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A Bouche Amused

Monthly Archives: July 2012

Sampling at the Savoy

31 Tuesday Jul 2012

Posted by a_bouche_amused in Restaurants

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european cuisine, savoy bistro

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Savoy, home of great viands. Savoy, it wins you with a glance. Savoy gives happy foodies a chance to dance. — with apologies to the legendary Ella Fitzgerald and the great Benny Goodman for the paraphrase. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpww0IoSQ0M)

When I hear the word “Savoy”, I think of Old-World refinement and elegance, as in the classic hotel in London. I also think of the hoppin’, hedonistic club in Harlem. But here, I’m “singing” about the Savoy Bistro located unobtrusively along Kalayaan Avenue, near Rockwell in Makati.

And when I hear the phrase “Swedish chef”, I think of that hilarious orzh-de-borscht-de-borg gibberish-speaking character from the Muppet Show! But Swedish chef Robert Lilja is as far from that madcap muppet as balut is from Eggs Benedict. Chef Robert is the force behind the Savoy Bistro, which specializes, they say, in recipes of the traditional haute cuisine of France (most especially the Savoie region), Switzerland, Sweden, Russia, and Hungary. Perhaps he is known more for his successful The Gustavian restaurant in Cebu or his cafe La Bohème at the Picasso Boutique Hotel in Salcedo Village, Makati, but here at the Savoy, Chef Robert gives free rein to his love of classic European cuisine.

In this first time to sample the Savoy, my friends and I ordered the Prix Fixe lunch to experience what the bistro is all about. It included 5 courses — one’s choice of salad, soup, main course, dessert, and coffee or tea. And we were blown away! Each dish was a full and hearty serving — unexpectedly large for a Prix Fixe meal — and each course was superb in taste and presentation. Which did not even include the complimentary amuse bouche of smoked salmon and mango on pumpernickel bread. At a most reasonable price yet at about P700 per person that one would have typically spent at least a thousand bucks for! Despite the rather lackluster service, the food impressed us enough to want to come back for more. The Savoy is definitely worth seconds!

To know more about Chef Robert Lilja and the Savoy Bistro, read more about it in these more detailed write-ups. Just click on the links.

The Savoy Bistro by Jocelyn Montemayor Reyes and Eating Through Time.

Savoy Bistro is at 8479 Kalayaan Avenue (near the Bel-Air Gate on Amapola St.), Makati. Telephone (02)8965667. Open daily from 12nn to 3pm, and 6pm to 12mn.

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Kay Sarap sa KaLui

29 Sunday Jul 2012

Posted by a_bouche_amused in Come Taste My Philippines, Restaurants

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KaLui, Puerto Princesa Palawan










It was my first time in Palawan and I stayed in its capital city of Puerto Princesa. Progressive and almost bustling it may be, the city still retains its provincial charm and unpretentiousness. However, I did notice that there are several enchanting choices in restaurants and bistros. One of them came highly recommended by a dear friend — KaLui. It touts itself as “the most famous and best value restaurant in Palawan”.

Eponymously named after its owner Luzerino Oliva, familiarly called Ka Lui, the restaurant is designed like a stretched-out native house of bamboo and solid wood. To enter, one has to take off one’s footwear, as in age-old Filipino (and for that matter, Asian) custom when entering anyone’s home. It does sort-of make one feel right at home, barefooting on the well-polished wood floors, I suppose. And the place really does feel homey in an over-the-top sort of way, with interiors so colorful and artful to the point of almost kitschy. Even the restrooms are thoughtfully designed. Of course I can only speak for the ladies’ room 😉 One part of the restaurant is serves as an art gallery which exhibits the works of local artists. There are a few phallic objets d’art discreetly placed here and there, one of which is often “held” yet unrecognized by many a customer, judging by the sheen of its surface.

Seafood is KaLui‘s main specialty. FRESH seafood! The repertoire may be limited as compared to the usual restaurant but one can always expect the seafood to be nothing less than the freshest catch of the day. And Palawan is a veritable treasure trove of the most wonderful seafood — from tuna, grouper (lapu-lapu), maya-maya, pampano to eels and rays, from clams and mussels (especially the endemic tamilok) to lobsters, prawns, crabs, and latô (seaweed).

KaLui gives diners the choice of the “Special of the Day” and the “Choice Catch.” These dishes are created from whatever freshest catch and ingredients which Ka Lui and his chefs find that day from the market and their fishermen suppliers. And from there, he decides on the best way to prepare and cook them. The evening I went, we had the crunchiest latô salad, dressed only with a squeeze of calamansi… grilled lobster, zested up with a fresh marinara sauce… beautifully seasoned and grilled tuna steaks. They even do justice to the simplest of vegetable dishes, like tempura and pinakbet. Carnivores may feel a little frustrated — KaLui rarely serves meat on their menu. The restaurant also stocks a good selection of South American wines for those, like me, who want fine vino to complement the excellent meal.

The next time I find myself in Palawan, I would definitely make it a point to dine here again. Fine fresh food, delightful ambience, good service, and reasonable prices — what more could one ask for? My bouche is happily amused!

KaLui is located at 369 Rizal Avenue, Puerto Princesa City, along what I suppose is the city’s restaurant row. They rarely accept walk-ins so it is best to make reservations early: 048 4332580 or +63928 7539621.

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Sea Grapes

06 Friday Jul 2012

Posted by a_bouche_amused in Come Taste My Philippines, Food Glorious Food

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lato, sea grapes

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When my niece and nephews were very small, I made them try latô. They looked doubtfully at this strange-looking, green bunch of tiny “nodules”, but I told them they were grapes that grow in the sea. “Ah, grapes”, said their young and innocent minds! Their vegetable police has outsmarted them again. At first, the briny taste weirded them out… but they liked it. They loved how the tiny “grapes” would pop in their mouths and would explode with the amazingly delicious flavor of the sea. And that’s how I got them to like latô.

Latô, also called arorosep in the northern provinces, is a seaweed that grows deep in the ocean, in intertidal zones near mangrove forests. Living in the city, getting your hands on really fresh latô is not easy. They are usually packed in seawater to keep them as crisp and fresh as possible in their trip from the sea to the market to your table. It’s incredibly delicate, too. Those teeny-weeny grapes can melt into watery nothingness if banged around in your shopping bag or even washed with tap water long before you eat it. To keep it crisp, rinse it quickly just before you eat it.

I like my latô as a salad, combined with sliced tomatoes and onions. NEVER pour dressing or sauce over the entire salad — they will melt. I dip the salad separately in a sauce of Bagoong Balayan and kalamansi. Some prefer to use local vinegar, like sukang Iloco, as dipping sauce. They make a healthy and perfect side dish to fried or grilled fish.

In texture, flavor, and the aroma of the ocean, it’s a winner! I love latô — Definitely amuses my bouche!

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