Monthly Archives: March 2015

Backstreet Bites : The Calderón

29 Sunday Mar 2015

Posted by in Backstreet Bites, Restaurants

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Sultry summer nights are soon upon us. Imagine, after a long sweltering day, sitting down in a cool and cozy bistro in the heart of the business district yet discreetly far away from its madness, noshing on delicious tapas and washing them down with well-chilled and refreshing Sangría, bright with the flavors of good rioja and fresh fruits. Maybe even to the accompaniment of a little live jazz music. That’s Calderón. At the back of Classica Condo, just off H. V. dela Costa Street in Salcedo Village.

My brother’s childhood friend and my fellow food-adventurer, Monchet Carballo, is one of the proprietors of Calderon Cocina Tapas y Bebidas. In fact, the restaurant takes its name from the street, F. Calderon St., in Little Baguio in San Juan City where he lives and where he first established this neighborhood eatery/tambayan a couple of years ago.

When a branch was opened in Salcedo Village, I checked it out and tried a few dishes, which I featured here. We also tried the Macadamia Sans Rival, which I liked but was not able to photograph because it disappeared faster than you can say “Cuando hay hambre, no hay mal pan“. But I’m definitely going back for more tapas, definitely more sangría… and maybe another slice of that yummy sans rival (I’m not sure but I think it’s from the Kitchen of Gay Vasquez in Valle Verde).

Backstreet Bites — Sultan and Sofrito

28 Saturday Mar 2015

Posted by in Restaurants, Uncategorized

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You might say these are inconspicuous yet interesting food spots just off the “eaten” track. Bistros and cafes located in the quiet, seldom-frequented backstreets of the city but which offer delightful and, more often than not, very reasonably priced dining experiences. Two such spots are Sofrito and Sultan, both on San Agustin Street, parallel to Leviste St., in Salcedo Village in Makati.

Sofrito, located at the back of LPL Mansion, is owned by Sra. Millie Gutierrez, herself from Puerto Rico, who serves her own family’s recipes of authentic Puerto Rican home-cooked dishes. The name Sofrito is derived from the traditional aromatic blend of herbs and spices which serves as the flavor foundation for the range of Caribbean and Latin American dishes. Originally, sofrito is a cooking technique introduced by the Spanish colonists and means to sauté or stir-fry.

The menu at Sofrito is as simple as the place is small. I’m not usually into plantains but my taste for adventure got the better of me enough to try the Mofongo. The very sound of the word made me curious. Mofongo is the signature dish of Puerto Rico and is made from fried and mashed green plantains combined with garlic, olive oil and chicharrón or bacon. I actually liked it — it’s very tasty and does not taste banana-ish at all.

Sultan Mediterranean Grill is practically right across Sofrito, located at the back of Valero Plaza Condominium. It’s okay. I’m a bit more strict in critiquing Mediterranean and South Asian cuisines as I am more familiar with them and their distinct flavors. For me, my personal benchmarks for these cuisines are Kashmir, Cafe Mediterranean, and Persian Grill. Compared to them, Sultan’s food is good and tasty but average. Not enough of the spice/flavor level I look for. The servings are hearty and the tiny cafe cozy and charmingly interiored. All in all, however, especially with their prices, Sultan is worth a visit or more.

The Cheese Club’s homage to our local fromages.

15 Sunday Mar 2015

Posted by in Come Taste My Philippines, The Cheese Club of the Philippines

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When I think of cheese made in the Philippines, I can only come up with kesong puti. Square white blocks of very soft, slightly salty cheese, made from unskimmed carabao’s milk, usually wrapped in banana leaves, and often eaten at breakfast sandwiched in hot pan de sal. Is that it? Is that all the cheese we make, I wondered?

At the recently-held March gathering of the Cheese Club of the Philippines, I was delighted to find that it spotlighted and paid tribute to our local cheeses. And one of the cheesemakers featured was Olive Puentespina’s Malagos Farmhouse Artisanal cheeses. In the past few years, fine locally-made cheeses have been finding their way to our plates — at our neighborhood Saturday Market, at the Wine Depot, in Rustan’s supermarkets, and in some restaurants like Chef Cyrille Soenen’s Brasserie CiÇou. They were from the Malagos Farmhouse Artisanal Cheeses of Davao. My favorite was their ricotta drizzled with a little truffle honey, which harmonized divinely with my sparkling rosé. There were also superb French-style goat cheeses created by The Goatary of Negros Oriental. The goats bred and raised here come from the Anglo-Nubian milking stock recognized worldwide for their high-quality high butterfat content and creamy flavor. Then there was that velvety and delicious fresh mozzarella from Bacolod created by the international cheesemaker Casa del Formaggio. (I want!!! Where do I buy this, I wondered?)

It is certainly wonderful to see that traditional, artisanal cheese-making is now making inroads in our country and we can now enjoy a range of fine Philippine-made cheeses beyond our customary Kesong Puti. That evening was definitely an eye-opening and palate-pleasing affair.