Category Archives: Food Glorious Food

Well, hello deli — Brera Deli

11 Tuesday Sep 2018

Posted by in Burgers, Delis and Supermarkets, Restaurants, Southern Spots

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I remember the first real and proper deli that I patronized was the venerable SÄNTIS, owned by Werner Berger (aka Sänti). If I remember right, he was the Executive Chef for Philippine Airlines back in the 70s until he retired and established Euro-Swiss Food Inc. in 1984. And in 1987, he opened Sänti’s Delicatessen on Yakal St. in Makati, offering a wide selection of imported European meats and food products … and wine and cheese, of course … like Manila had never enjoyed before. People, especially gourmets, flocked to his deli and made it part of their weekly marketing to-do.

Of course, not before long, delicatessens (from the French word délicatesse, meaning “delicious things [to eat]) became popular and familiar sources of European food products, like cheeses, sausages and cured meats, other specialty fare, and even prepared dishes. Not soon after, Terry’s opened in the 90s, bringing superb Spanish meats and dishes, thanks to Señor Juan Carlos de Terry.

And now comes a new favorite deli for me, Brera. Owned by the S&L Fine Foods group, it, too, offers a good repertoire of European gourmet food products. Like both Sänti’s and Terry’s Selection, Brera offers as well excellently prepared dishes which make use of and showcase the fine merchandise they sell. The steaks and pastas are outstanding, although being a bit on the the pricey side.

Brera Delicatessen is located at Molito Shopping Complex across from Ayala Alabang Village. And recently, a branch has now openned on the ground floor of the Park Terraces Tower at the Glorietta Complex in Makati.

Prosciutto di Quack-quack

22 Thursday Mar 2018

Posted by in Food Glorious Food, Yum Shots

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When you hear prosciutto, no doubt you immediately think of that delightful dry-cured Italian ham made from a hog’s leg. But if you are fortunate enough to come across it, you should try duck or goose prosciutto. Familiar as we all are with the traditional prosciutto made from pigs, this is an entirely different, divine, and ducky experience.

Prosciutto d’Oca

It seems the Jewish community in Italy and all over Europe, forbidden by religious law to eat pork, had found a way to enjoy a more Kosher prosciutto, using duck or goose. According to food writer  , “…Jews in every country in the Diaspora found ways to create kosher versions of their neighbors’ food. Italian Jews took duck and smoked it to create duck prosciutto, the kosher cousin to the famous Italian salted ham.”

And I am so happy that they did. Goose or duck prosciutto has its own distinct rich flavor that’s a league all on its own. It tastes salty-sweet with a slight gamey sharpness that goes perfectly with a full-bodied, bold red, like a Pinot Noir or Malbec. It was no surprise that all the duck or goose prosciutto slices (I’m not exactly sure which one it is but I think it was duck) served at the Cheese Club were polished off in under an hour, while all the other deli meats offered had to settle for second choice.

Now, can anyone tell me please where I can buy duck prosciutto here in Manila?

Burgers at UCC Mentoré

23 Tuesday Jan 2018

Posted by in Burgers, Food Glorious Food, Yum Shots

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I “discovered” great burgers at an unlikely spot — UCC Mentoré. A cozy and often overlooked oasis in the middle of the Raffles and Fairmont Hotels at the Glorietta Complex in Makati. When you think UCC, you most likely think just Japanese + coffee. But they serve great and delicious food there, from soups, salads, and sandwiches to pasta and pastries.

Mentore Burger: 1/3 lb US Angus beef burger with caramelized onions and blue cheese. Served with wedged fries.

Sloppy Joe Burger : Grilled beef patty smothered in cheese sauce and marinara, topped with onions and a fried egg. Served with wedged fries.

Churros and more at the La Maripili Churreria

23 Tuesday May 2017

Posted by in Food Glorious Food, Noshes in my Neighborhood

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Churros — crisp and delicate outside, soft and buttery inside. When dipped in thick, hot Spanish chocolate, ooooh is all I can say. Churros bring me back to my childhood when I’d spend afternoons with my Dad at La Cibeles on Mabini St. in Ermita or at Dulcinea beside the Rizal Theater in Makati. Theirs are the standards by which I measure the churros in today’s churrerias.

And I can’t think of a better way to spend a rainy afternoon than sitting by the window of a cozy and homey churrería, watching the world go by and enjoying crisp and buttery churros dipped in warm, rich, dark chocolate?

I like the churros at La Maripili. They’ve got what for me is the perfect crunch and light doughiness and buttery flavor. Unlike the heavy-handed doughy mixture that’s compensated for with flavored sugary sprinkles served in fast-food churro outlets. And you have your choice of the delicious churros — classic, filled, sweet, and even savory. I munched first on a dark-chocolate-coated churro, while going through the list of churro choices in the menu. Do I go with classic churros and an accompanying dip? Which dip — dark chocolate, Suizo chocolate, or salted caramel? Hmmm, I want to try them all! But, for now, I tried Suizo. Lovely! But I prefer it WITHOUT the whipped cream.

They also offer filled churros — Catalan cream, chocolate and chili mousse, dulce de leche, and more — as well as churros with savory toppings like Jamón Serrano or Chorizo and honey! And if that’s not enough to make my head spin, they also have churros with your choice of coating — dark chocolate, dark chocolate with flaky sea salt and olive oil, white chocolate, strawberry, mango, and hazelnut! Arg, I want to taste them all!!!

Obviously, one visit is simply not enough. I came back a second time, this time to try their other fare, such as their choices of Huevos dishes and their pastas. Although the chorizos and jamón serranos were generous, I do wish there were more huevos than queso in their servings. If there were, then it would really be great breakfast fare, washed down with yummy Spanish chocolate. And I do give two thumbs up for their Mac & Cheese, with its triple-cheese bechamel (gouda, cheddar, and mozzarella) and the addition of chorizo and a dash of chili. I could easily finish up 2 servings of this — really good! And the fresh-baked, perfectly toasted breads that accompany these are excellent, created by their master bread baker Chef Bruno Tirel.

On the downside, though — we found out only too late after we had run up a hefty tab that they do not accept credit cards! What restaurant that’s been up and running for about a year now does not have credit card amenity? I would have appreciated it if the cashier or the manager had told us beforehand. Thankfully, we had enough cash among us to pay for our feast.

But all that aside, if I were jonesing for churros, La Maripili is my “pili” (choice in Filipino).

If you want to know more about churros, read about it at http://theprisma.co.uk/2011/07/17/churros-a-secret-history/

La Maripili is at the ground floor of the Sykes Bldg., at the Alabang Town Center. For reservations, contact +63-905-5187422 (not that you really need one as it is seldom full). Another branch has opened at the Ayala Malls the 30th in Pasig.

Let’s Talk Tacos at La Chinesca

05 Friday May 2017

Posted by in Food Glorious Food, Mexican Food, Noshes in my Neighborhood

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From the name to the food, this place defies expectations in a most delicious way.

When I first heard of a hidden gem named La Chinesca, I immediately thought it was just another Chinese food joint. To my surprise, I learned that it is actually a Mexican taqueria owned by Chef Bruce Ricketts. Odd name for a taqueria, I thought. But it seems that La Chinesca is a real neighborhood in the Mexican city of Mexicali and is historically the home of the largest Chinese community in Mexico. I’m not sure how Chef Bruce Ricketts chose La Chinesca as the name for his eatery, but it is said that it is in Mexican food he is at his happiest and his training in Japanese cuisine helps make his Mexican concoctions extra-special.

Yes, there are tacos and tostadas BUT DO NOT expect the usual Mexican fare. Chef Bruce wields his amazing creativity and culinary finesse in all that he puts out. From the best guacamole I’ve ever tasted (the sprinkle of sichimi togarashi gives it that unexpected and addictive punch on the palate), served on a traditional Mexican molcajete (volcanic rock mortar)… To each and every taco and tostada! Of course you’ll find the familiar Carne Asada and Carnitas — done perfectly, which goes without saying — but he has come up with other exciting and toe-curling delicious combinations as well. You simply have to try the other extraordinary toppings and fillings, such as: Tripitas Taco — beef intestines, watermelon, chile de arbol, onions, and cilantro; Chivo Taco — Barbacoa-style goat a la plancha, jicama, sesame, salsa verde, and feta; Guisada de Res Taco — stewed beef shoulder, tongue, bell pepper, rice, and pinipig; Pulpo Taco — octopus, garlic and cilantro purée, potatoes, and salsa burracha; Tuna Tostada — Fresh raw tuna, doubanjiang mayonnaise, lime and orange, Maggi, onions, and peanuts.

And many many more, depending on the availability and freshness of the ingredients they procure. It isn’t an absolutely fixed menu, so expect a delicious surprise with every visit. And don’t forget to ask about the off-the-menu menu. You just might luck out and get Lamb Barbacoa, served with eggplant and aguacate (i.e. avocado) purée that day!

La Chinesca is so coy, so secret that there is no sign that indicates that this is it! I have attached a map to sort-of guide you where to go in BF Homes. It’s right along Aguirre Avenue, the restaurant strip of the South — coming from the BF main gate from President’s Avenue, just go straight on. After Elizalde St., be on the look-out for Amalia’s on your right side. That will be where you’ll find La Chinesca. It’s a tiny place — with just 5 or 6 tables plus stools at the counter — that serves BIG flavors! Andale, andale!

Fish Be To You

07 Friday Apr 2017

Posted by in Come Taste My Philippines, Food Glorious Food, Seafood

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It’s that time of the year again. The Lenten Season. When our culinary thoughts turn to fish and seafood for the table, especially on Fridays. Some would think it’s a penitential sacrifice to abstain from meat for a whole day. But, for me, it’s not at all. Filipinos are spoiled with choices of fish and seafood in our country. And there is nothing like fresh seafood, no matter how you cook it — fried, poached, baked, grilled, steamed, pangat, paksiw, sinigang, daing, smoked or tinapa, dried, stewed, and even “cooked” in vinegar or lime juice like in kinilaw or ceviche. Yes, there are plenty of fish in the sea. Especially in the seas of the Philippines, which are blessed with over 2,400 species of fish. This does not include other marine life such as shellfish and seaweeds.

As a little girl, I used to hate going to the palengke with my mother in Quiapo and at the Seaside Market in Baclaran to buy fish. And now, who would have thought I would come to enjoy going to fresh fish markets all over the country? Poking, smelling, peeking at the gills. At the Farmers’ Market in Cubao. The Seafood Market in Real, Quezon. Cebu’s famous Taboan Market. The Tagbilaran Fish Market in Bohol. And when I can’t go to these faraway fish markets, our own neighborhood Saturday Market (with chitchat and exchange of recipes with my favorite Lola Fishmonger) and South Supermarket in Alabang.

Aside from the usual bangus (milkfish), lapulapu (grouper), and galunggong (round scad), I love discovering the other hundreds of fish our seas, rivers, and lakes bestow on us. And the second best part of fish marketing is swapping and discussing recipes with the local vendors, who are always eager to share their own favorites. Seeing the eager look in their eyes as they describe how they cook their favorite seafood dish is such a joy. And then trying out the recipes on the fish I bought from them, especially the ones I just learned about that day. Like hiwas, otherwise known as chabita or chabet. In English, it’s a moonfish. Boiled in a sour stew (pinangat) and then deep-fried until super-crunchy that you could eat even the fins and tail, it’s a favorite in Batangas. Second only to tawilis.

Anthony Bourdain once wrote in his book “Kitchen Confidential” many years ago not to buy fish on Mondays as the fish markets in New York were closed over the weekend and, hence, Monday fish stocks were not fresh. But we are fortunate here in the Philippines. Being an archipelago with rich marine resources, our fishing industry is incredibly active that you can count on getting fresh fish and seafood every day, even in supermarkets. I do prefer to buy early in the day so that the fish are as fresh as can be, given the “commute” they had to make.

The abundance of our fish and marine resources is something we must be profoundly grateful for. And must take great care of. Other countries are not as blessed. I can only wish and pray that greed, over-exploitation, ignorance, and mindless disregard will not deplete these blessings.

And, on that note, fish be to you and grace from Him.

The Attack of the Salted Egg Potato Chips!!!

21 Friday Oct 2016

Posted by in Food Glorious Food

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You can’t have just one, so says the ad slogan for a brand of potato chips. No, you absolutely cannot have just one of these! From the moment you open the container and inhale that wonderful ducky, briny aroma, you just have to attack them. Salted egg potato chips! It’s the latest craze that has everyone binge-snacking on today.

Salted duck eggs have been a desirable ingredient in Southeast Asian cuisines, especially in the Philippines. We’ve used itlog na maalat or itlog na pulá on salads, bibingka, puto, etc. But they say the idea of potato chips coated with salted egg started in Singapore. Perhaps so. And now it has arrived at our shores and this deliciously deadly snack has begun to conquer the tastebuds of Filipinos. I have tried 3 brands (to date) of salted egg potato chips. Just to compare (wink, wink).

Made by local food entrepreneurs, these are hand-cut real potatoes coated in melted butter and the yolk of salted duck eggs, then fried to a crisp. Mix in fried, crunchy curry leaves and, for a little kick, some bird’s eye chili (labuyò). The result is rich, salty-sweet-umami taste in a crunchy vehicle that gets you absolutely addicted.

These were the brands I tried — Blue Kitchen, Andy’s Good Eats, and Saporito Gourmet. Each one distinct in their execution of the basic recipe, each one outstanding in its own way. The salted egg coating is generous and strong in all. Blue Kitchen branches are located at the Power Plant Mall, Shangri-La Plaza, Robinsons Magnolia, and NAIA Terminal 3.

Blue Kitchen‘s is a little more straightforward in its flavors. It’s called “Addicting Salted Egg Potato Chips” and that’s no understatement. A pack, which I personally found pretty small but handy enough to bring in as a movie snack, costs around PhP250. Yes, double the price of imported potato chip brands but definitely worth it still.

Andy’s Salted Egg Potato Chips is like a flavor bomb exploding in your mouth with every chip. Each chip is evenly and bountifully coated with the butter-salted egg mixture, giving it that strong and sharp creamy-salty flavor, and yet the chips stay crisp and crunchy. The chili kick can be assertive but not too much — with the addition of sugar, there is a slight sweetness that rounds out the spiciness and gives great balance to the total flavor. I loved this the best for its luxuriously crunchy-silky salted-eggness. The chips are so flavorful that they are almost decadent in their yumminess. However, I can’t eat a lot in one sitting. I chill the jar before attacking the chips again and that’s just pure heaven.

The chips come in a well-sealed 150-gram tub, at PhP 250 each. These are created by Andy Huang who used to be Chief Financial Officer for PAL and now runs a home-based food business called Andy’s Good Eats. He is actually known more for his gourmet dishes such as Hainanese Chicken, Wagyu Oyster Blade Roast, Momofuku-style Pork Buns. And now, his Salted Egg Potato Chips are available at a food stall beside the entrance to Fitness First in the RCBC Plaza. To order this and any of his dishes, you can call 897-1676, 0917-5251272, and 0917-8158631. Get more details at his Facebook page.

Saporito Gourmet Salted Egg Potato Crisps taste as delicious as Andy’s but lighter and, for me, just a little bit saltier. Instead of fried curry leaves, though, Saporito uses basil leaves. Not that that makes a difference in the taste — The crisps are full-flavored without being cloying. Saporito Gourmet says as well that only fresh organic salted eggs are used for their crisps. A jar (no indicated net weight) costs PhP350. Saporito’s food products are available for orders through 0995-6542337. They can be found in Alabang, Marikina, Binondo, Parañaque, and Quezon City, as well as in provincial urban centers in Ilocos, Cebu, Bacolod, and Davao. Saporito also ships/mails orders. Find out more on their Facebook page.

There are probably half a dozen more brands of salted egg potato chips out there. And like a good food soldier that I am, for your sake, I will attempt to attack as many of them as I can and write about them here. For now, I will do my crunches… salted egg potato chip crunches, that is.

I have a bone to pick…

01 Thursday Sep 2016

Posted by in Food Glorious Food, Restaurants

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“God’s butter”. That’s what Anthony Bourdain called it. And I agree. Rich and velvety, smooth in a gooey way, and packed with that wonderful umami taste. Bone marrow. Yum!

Chef Jay Gamboa's Roasted Bone Marrow with Mole Asado

Chef Jay Gamboa’s Roasted Bone Marrow with Mole Asado at Cirkulo

People often are aghast whenever I order bone marrow. “It’s sinful!” Or “That’s so bad for you!” True, it does contain a whole lot of fat. In fact, about 96% of it is fat yet it yields a lot of benefits as well. I had read that “a serving of beef bone marrow contains 6.79 grams of unsaturated fat, which is 10 percent of your daily requirement on a 2,000-calorie diet. It contains zero grams of trans or saturated fats. Unsaturated fats may help in reducing overall cholesterol levels. However, you should limit your total fat consumption to between 20 percent and 35 percent of your daily calorie intake,” according to one site, Livstrong.com. (You can read more about it here: http://www.livestrong.com/article/539722-nutritional-contents-of-beef-bone-marrow/). Bone marrow also provides a lot of collagen, that protein-abundant substance that helps the body rebuild itself. That is the reason why I make bone broth, with lots of marrow, for my own aging dogs.

Aside from the usual Bulalo (classic Filipino Beef Stew with Marrow), you can enjoy bone marrow roasted. Like the way Chef Jay Gamboa does it at his restaurant Cirkulo (at the Milky Way Building on Pasay Road). He serves the perfectly roasted marrow-rich bones on a bed of rock salt, accompanied by a small bowl of Beef Molé Asado (so good that I wonder if it contains chocolate to give it that rich taste?). Simply spread that unctuous goodness on toast and top with a bit of Molé … and swoon!

Roasted Bone Marrow, made famous in Gaita Fores's Pepato

Roasted Bone Marrow at Grace Park in Rockwell by Chef Gaita Fores

Chef Gaita Fores also does a brilliant take at Roasted Bone Marrow. She first served it at her Pepato restaurant but now this incredible dish can be enjoyed at Grace Park (on the ground floor of One Rockwell on Hidalgo Drive in Rockwell, Makati). Simply spread that “butter” onto the bruschetta and squirt a bit of lemon to balance off the richness of the marrow. Absolute heaven!

It’s not hard to make roasted bone marrow at home, actually. First and foremost, of course, is to choose the proper part of the cow’s leg and get a whole bone. The femur (or biyas, in Filipino) is ideal as it is long, straight, and thick. Ask your butcher to cut the bone lengthwise for easier scooping of that heavenly marrow, although having the bone cut crosswise is okay, too. Just before cooking, season the marrow with a bit of salt and pepper just to draw out the juices. Then place the bones on a baking dish or foil and roast in your oven, the cut side up, for 20 minutes at 425°F (or about 218°C). When the marrow starts to bubble up at the sides, it’s all ready. Sprinkle with some sea salt and enjoy. It’s that easy!

 

Tripping on Tsukiji

25 Wednesday May 2016

Posted by in Food Glorious Food, Japan

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EVER SINCE I watched “Jiro Dreams of Sushi“, the amazing documentary about the illustrious sushi master Chef Ono Jirō, I was determined to go to Tokyo’s famed Tsukiji Market.

I had the laughable idea of getting up at 2:00 effing-AM to watch the 5:25 AM seri or live tuna auction at the Tsukiji Market. It is, after all, the largest wholesale fish and seafood market in the world! I even booked our B&B just a couple of blocks from the market so that we didn’t have to walk far or take the train to get there! And I did wake up at two. I opened my window and was promptly blasted by autumn’s face-numbing, bone-chilling cold. I thought about lining up from 3:30 AM onwards just to be one of the lucky first batch of 60 people who will be allowed to watch the action. I looked at my cozy and warm blanket… and went back to bed.

I did make it for breakfast, though, at the Jou-gai — the off-market area in the periphery of the main fish market that is open to the public. The place was jumping! The activity, the crowd, the immense variety of fish and seafood, fruits and vegetables, packaged and dried food items, chef’s knives and kitchen utensils, a myriad of sushi restaurants and “barbecue-hans”, tuna, tuna, and more tuna!. Imagine enjoying the freshest, most premium toro (that’s the fatty part of the tuna, found in the belly portion of the fish). This cut can cost at least P400 a slice in Manila! A whole bowl here of prime tuna slices would cost under P1,000! And the servings of tastes-like-butter uni (sea urchin) and salmon sashimi are simply too generous for words! I felt I was transported like Alice into an amazing seafood wonderland. The place, the people, the food, the whole experience… it was all so exhilarating … and even a little overwhelming, in a good way. I loved every fascinating second, every delicious nook and cranny of Tsukiji Market.

Let the photos speak for just how much I thoroughly enjoyed the place.

And here is the scene in the docufilm that showed the inner workings of Tsukiji Market — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKmHQJFIw6s

I am incredibly thankful that I got to experience and savor Tokyo’s most extraordinary seafood market, before its scheduled relocation to Toyosu, almost two and 1/2 kilometers away, supposedly by November 2016. Go now!

May Pusong Mamon

20 Friday May 2016

Posted by in Backstreet Bites, Food Glorious Food

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Soft, sweet-salty, fluffy
Welcome to the home of the best mamon
Segovia’s Cake & Recipes

Serendipity is coming upon specially good food in unlikely, off-the-beaten-track places. Like in San Juan City, especially in Little Baguio. One such delightful spot is Segovia’s Cakes and Recipes.

Way back then (noong panahon pa ni Mahoma, as my Lola would say), hilly Little Baguio was comparatively cooler and breezier than Manila and considered the go-to summer retreat of prominent Manileños. Lovely summer homes with spacious grounds filled with trees were built here. Today, Little Baguio plays host to many delightful eateries, cafes, and restaurants located along its winding streets. Such as Segovia’s Cakes and Recipes, which is on 7 M.A. Reyes St., just off J. Abad Santos St. It is the ancestral home of the Segovias and the daughter, Carmen, put up a bakery-café right where the garage used to be. Behind that, she has her Cake Studio.

After we had had our wonderful lunch of roasted duck rice at the Choi Hung Roasts, we went further up J. A. Santos and turned right on M. A. Reyes Street, barely half a kilometer away. There we came upon a typical charming home where delicious food can be enjoyed. By the gate, you’ll see their poster. Feel free to go right in. There are small tables both inside the cafe and outside on a simple patio where one can enjoy the Segovia specialities in a relaxing, homey atmosphere. We chose to sit inside and order the special mamon to go with the strong, fresh-brewed coffee. The mamon was special indeed — soft and fluffy, with the perfect balance of sweet/buttery and salty/cheesy! A pillow of heaven is what I call it!

While waiting for our orders, we enjoyed looking at the colorful clippings from the Archie Comics comics of our childhood, which served as under-glass decorations on each table and observed one customer after another coming and going with their orders of boxes of goodies. Carmen makes the mamon herself every single day. To ensure the taste and quality are maintained to her exacting standards. And she bakes only 300 pieces a day! So pag ubos, ubos. Sorry na lang kayo! But there are other items offered, both sweet and savory. From cakes and cupcakes to sandwiches and pasta dishes. And I heard her custard cake — which Carmen calls her “pangit na cake” — is to die for! A return is a must for me so I can try the other goodies and write more about it.

But do come by and check it out for yourself: 7 M.A. Reyes St., Little Baguio, San Juan. You may call for orders or even for catering at 725-2849 or 727-4616.